James k



(No Model.)

` J. K. P. PINE.

GUFI' AND THE MBTHGD OF MAKING THE SAME.

j Patented Apr. 5, 1887.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES K. l?. PINE, OF LANSINGBURG, NEV YORK.

CUFF AND THE METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 360,471, dated April 5, 1887.

Application filed February 3,1887. Serial No. 226,434. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JAMES K. l?. PINE, of the village of Lansingburg, county of Rensselaer, State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Apparel Cuffs, of'

which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to a manner of cutting the form of and a manner of putting together the parts of an apparel cuff, it being the object and purpose of my invention to simplify the manner of making this class of articles and to cheapen the cost of their production.

My invention consists, (as will be more fully described hereinafter in connection with its illustratiomand detailed in the claims,) in cuff manufacture, in the application of a blank that is cut from the fabric in one piece, having the proper width and a sufficient length to produce, when folded back on itself at its crossf center, both of the exterior faces of the cuff,- said facing-blank being made with a hem-fold on its side edges turned inwardly, and one or more lengths of ply cut from the fabric to have the same length as the facingblank, but being narrower and having la width corresponding to that of the facing-blank inside of its hemfold edges, the said parts thus cut being attached and united to produce a cuff by laying the facing uppermost over the ply, with their end edges coincident and with the edges of the ply within the side hem-folds of the facingblank, and then folding them together on their cross-center as thus laid, and so as to bring the coincidently-opposte end edges of the facing and ply together and parallel, then stitch ing them together along their end edges, then turning the connected blanks so as to bring the facing-blank at the outsidc,and exteriorly border-stitching the side edges of the facing and ply, so as to include the side edges of the latter within the hem-fold of the facing, thus making the cross-fold line one end ofthe cuff and the sewed end the other end, with both of said ends border-stitched for a finish.

Accompanying this specification, to form a part of it, there is a sheet of drawings containing six figures illustrating my invention, with the same designation of parts by letter-reference used in all of them. v

Of these illustrations, Figure 1 is aplan view of the facing-blank. Fig. 2 shows the facingblank with a thickness of the ply superimposed thereon, one corner of the latter being illustrated as turned up and then over and down to show the relative position of the two blanks and the hem-folds as made in the faeing-side edges. Fig. 3 shows the position of the blanks illustrated at Fig. 2 after they have been folded over and down on their cross-center with one of the ends of each turned back. Fig. 4 shows the completed cuff 5 and Fi g5 illustrates a sec tion of the parts,taken on thelinex x of Fig. 4, and Fig. 6 a section of the parts, taken on the line fr :v2 of Fig. 4.

The several parts of my improved cuff are designated byletter-reference, and the several process-steps by which the parts are connected are described as follows:

The letter F designates the facing that forms the exterior surface of the cuff when finished. This facing is cut from the fabric in one piece to have .the proper width, and a sufficient length to produce, when folded back on itself at its cross-center, both of the exterior facings ofthe cuff. This facing Fis made to have upon its side edges the inturned hem-folds h', each of which is intended to embrace one of the side edges of the ply.

The letter P indicates the ply, which is cut with a length corresponding to that of the fac ingblank, but having a width that is enough narrower than the facing to have its side edges embraced by the hem-folds of the outer facing.

The dotted line d indicates the cross-center fold-line of both the blanks when laid prepara tory to folding them thereat. 7h en the blanks are thus laid with the facing uppe1most,and folded over and down on the said line d so as to bring their opposite ends e eIZ together, and thereat sewed, as indicated at S', the fold-line d forms one end of the cuff and the sewed end d2 the other. After the parts have been thus Cross-folded and connected at S', they are turned so as to bring` the facing F to the outside, so

that the fold 7 thereof makes the outer-side 9 facing when worn, and the fold f thereof the inner facing and that next to the person of the wearer when worn.

4The letter S2 designates aline of border- IOO are united, said stitching passing through the two folded thicknesses of the facing where folded back on itself, the two hem-folds made in the latter, and two thicknesses of the ply, each one of which is separately embraced and held by one of the hem-folds of the facing, and S3 aline of border-stitching through the folded end d. This method of arranging the parts of a cuff, so that theintnrned henrfolded edges of the facing shall embrace and have secured therein separately one of the side edges of the ply is an important feature of my invention, as will be 4detailed in the claims, and it performs the same function in the same manner of securing the side edges of the ply each within a separate hem-fold madein the facing that it would if the facing and ply were cut in two separate pieces that were joined at the ends and each piece of the facing made with ahenr fold at its side, which would separately einbrace one of the side edges of the ply. rlhis method of anchoring or securing separately each side edge of the ply by means of an embracing he1n-fold formed in the side edges of the facing retains the thicknesses of the ply securely in place, so that they are not torn out in laundrying and ironing, and thus prevents the formation of excrescences in the articles, while at the saine time it puts the material in best possible position to secure a regular and well-finished edge.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. An apparel cuff consisting of an exterior facing-blank of fabric in one piece which is long enough when. folded at its cross-center to form the two exterior facings of the cuff, and said blank having inturned hem-fold edges at its side throughout its length, a ply-blank the same length as the facing-blank and folded at its cross-center to form two thicknesses of ply, said pl y-bank being made enough narrower than the facing-blank to have the hem-fold side edges of the latter embrace separately one of the side edges of the ply, said parts being connected as shown and described.

2. A cuff consisting of a facing-blank of fabric long enough to be folded at its cross-center and form both sides of vthe exterior facing of the cuff, a ply-blank of the same length as the facing-blank and adapted to be folded at its cross-center to form two thicknesses of the ply, with the opposite ends of the two blanks where brought together united by stitching to form one end of the cuff, and the cross-fold line of the blanks border-stitched to produce the other end of the cuff, substantially as shown and described.

3. rllhe method herein described of securing the inner ply to a cuff-blank of twice thelength of the finished cuff, which consists in cutting the ply narrower than the cuff-blank and of the saine length, then laying the ply on the cuff-blank and turning the edges ot the cuffblank over the edges of the ply, then folding the ply and cuff-blank with the faces of the ply together, and then securing the parts together by a line of stitches about the edges and across the fold at the end, as specified.

Signed at rlroy, New York, this 4th day of January, 1887, and in the presence of the two witnesses whose names are hereto written.

JAMES K. P. PINE.

Witnesses:

CHARLEs S. BRINTNALL, GEO. A. DARBY. 

